When a Tomato Becomes the Dish

There is a brief moment every summer when a tomato stops being an ingredient and becomes the dish itself.

August is that moment.

At peak ripeness, tomatoes develop the balance chefs look for in almost everything: sweetness, acidity, aroma, juiciness and umami. The best varieties can be intensely fruity, deeply savory or almost floral — which explains why elaborate preparation can sometimes make them less interesting, not more.

It is also why some of summer’s most memorable tomato dishes are remarkably simple.

Think sliced heirlooms with olive oil and sea salt. Pan con tomate in Spain. Italian panzanella. Tomatoes with burrata. A ripe tomato rubbed onto toasted bread.

Different cultures, same instinct: when the ingredient reaches its peak, interfere with it as little as possible.

Where to Find the Best Tomatoes

During tomato season, farmers markets and farm stands are often the best place to start. Because the fruit doesn’t have to withstand long-distance distribution, growers can sell delicate varieties and tomatoes picked closer to full ripeness.

Good grocery stores can be excellent too — particularly when they carry locally or regionally grown tomatoes in season.

How to Choose One

Don’t look for perfection. Some of the most flavorful tomatoes are irregular, ribbed or slightly misshapen.

Instead, look for a tomato that feels heavy for its size, has developed color and gives very slightly under gentle pressure. Avoid fruit with deep bruises, splits or overly soft areas.

Then smell it. A good ripe tomato should have a noticeable sweet, green, distinctly tomato-like aroma, particularly around the stem.

And if you’re at a farmers market, there is an even better strategy: ask the grower what tastes best that week. Peak season changes quickly, and the answer may lead you to a variety you wouldn’t otherwise have chosen.

Once home, keep ripe tomatoes at room temperature when you’ll be eating them soon. Their aroma and texture are best appreciated without the chill of the refrigerator.

So before tomato season disappears, find one that smells distinctly of tomato, serve it at room temperature, and taste it before deciding what else it needs. 

More often than not, a sprinkle of sea salt and a drizzle of good olive oil are enough.